How is a 9-Jour denim actually made?
From raw material to color, discover how we craft your denim step by step.
At 9-Jour, every denim is the result of a precise, slow, and carefully controlled process. Depending on the desired outcome, color can be applied at different stages of production. Today, we work with three main processes, each giving rise to distinct expressions of denim.
The Making Processes
Our three denims are born from the same philosophy. What changes is the moment when color is applied. That is why we choose the process itself based on the final result we are aiming for.
How do we produce our colored denims
A denim dyed piece by piece, after being woven and fully constructed as a pair of jeans.
-
Cotton cultivation
🇧🇫 — Burkina Faso
Everything begins here.
The cotton used for this denim is grown
by local farming communities in Burkina Faso,
without pesticides or chemical fertilizers.
In this country, cotton is a vital crop,
both economically and socially.
Growing a healthy, traceable fiber
lays the foundation for every quality that follows.
-
01｜Weaving
🇯🇵 Shinohara Textile — Fukuyama, Hiroshima
Where cotton becomes denim fabric.
Shinohara Textile is the workshop responsible
for the very first stage of this denim’s creation.
For over 70 years, they have handled every step in-house,
from cotton selection to fabric weaving.
In industrial denim production, the type of cotton
is usually fixed from the outset.
Here, it is not.
The organic cotton from Burkina Faso used for this project
features long, consistent fibers.
Its texture recalls vintage denim,
which is why it was chosen
on Shinohara Textile’s recommendation. -
Weaving
Woven on shuttle looms
At Shinohara Textile, the fabric is not produced
on high-speed looms designed for mass production.
Instead, it is woven on traditional shuttle looms.
Rather than shooting the weft thread by air or force,
the shuttle travels slowly from side to side,
passing a single continuous thread.
It is a time-consuming and demanding process,
but one that allows artisans to make fine adjustments
while closely monitoring the fabric at every stage.
Thanks to low-tension weaving
— Natural irregularities and depth
— A supple hand that adapts to the body
— A texture that deepens with wear, time, and dyeSlowly woven, this fabric evolves over time,
becoming a material meant to be lived in,
and kept for years.
-
SelvedgeSelvedge — a symbol of Japanese denim
Denim woven on shuttle looms naturally forms
a closed edge: the selvedge.
This is not a decorative feature.
It proves the fabric was woven as one continuous piece,
without the need for later finishing.
The result is a stronger fabric that resists fraying.
This is why selvedge denim remains stable over time
and develops richer character with wear.
On 9-jour. denim, red and green lines
are woven into the selvedge.
A tribute to Burkina Faso,
inspired by the colors of its flag.
A subtle detail that quietly speaks
of the fabric’s origins and journey. -
Inspection
Inspection and screening
Before any irreversible step — cutting, sewing, or dyeing —
every roll of denim is inspected by hand,
immediately after weaving.
The goal is to ensure the fabric meets
the standards of this project.
The inspection focuses on:
— Consistency of the weave throughout the roll
— Thread tension and overall stability
— Absence of flaws in the fabric and selvedge
— Any defects affecting comfort or dye resultsNothing moves forward
without passing through human eyes and judgment.
-
02｜Construction
🇯🇵 Nice Corporation — Kojima, Okayama
Where fabric takes the shape of jeans.
Kojima is known as one of the birthplaces
of Japanese denim.
The phrase “Made in Japan Denim” was born here.
Denim woven by Shinohara Textile
is shipped in rolls to Kojima,
where Nice Corporation turns it into finished jeans.
This stage includes:
— Pattern-based cutting
— Assembly and sewing
— Preparation for dyeingAt this point, the jeans are still undyed.
Color is applied only after construction is complete. -
Construction
Precision sewing in Kojima
Sewing at Nice Corporation is carried out
with a deep understanding of denim as a material.At every stage, the focus is on:
— Strength of the seams
— Careful assembly
— Durability built for long-term wearFor 9-jour. jeans, polyester thread is never used.
Only biodegradable threads, such as rayon, are employed.
Even unseen details matter.
The garment is considered as a whole.
This is the philosophy behind the craft.
-
03｜Dyeing
🇯🇵 Kawabata Shoten — Kyoto
Where finished jeans receive plant-based color.
Kyoto has long been a center of dyeing culture,
passed down through generations.
This is where 9-jour. jeans
receive their final color.
Kawabata Shoten is the only workshop in the world
capable of performing Shin-Manyō dyeing.
— Plant-derived elements are reduced to powder
— Without boiling or polluting water
— Creating colors with depth and expressionOnly a very small amount of dye is used,
yet it produces nuances unattainable
through industrial dyeing methods. -
Dyeing
A dye meant to evolve
Shin-Manyō dyeing is not intended
to freeze color in time.
Through wear, washing, and exposure to light,
the shade gradually changes.— The fabric softens with use
— Brightness shifts little by little
— The wearer’s time becomes visible in the colorNo two pieces will ever look the same.
Free from chemical agents,
the fabric remains gentle to the touch,
with a soft, natural hand.
-
04｜Finishing & packaging🇯🇵 Nice Corporation — Kojima, Okayama
Checking dyed jeans and preparing them for shipment.
After dyeing in Kyoto,
9-jour. jeans return to Kojima.
This is the final stage of production.
Each piece is inspected individually.— No unwanted color irregularities
— No stains or marks from dyeing
— Stitching remains solid after immersion
— Overall compliance with 9-jour. standardsSlight color variations are natural
and part of this denim’s character.
However, any piece with quality issues
is not shipped.
Only approved jeans reach the customer. -
Packaging
Packaging designed to protect the product
Immediately after final inspection,
the denim is placed into packaging
specifically designed for Shin-Manyō dyeing.
Each pair of jeans is:— Sealed in a UV-protective bag
— Vacuum-packed with air removed
— Packed together with an oxygen absorberThis helps stabilize color during transport.
Plant-based dyes are never completely fixed.
From the moment the package is opened,
air, light, and wear slowly begin to alter the shade.
That is where the color’s story truly begins.
About printed denim
Here, the yarn is not dyed first, nor is the finished garment dyed afterward. Color is applied while the material is still fabric—before cutting and sewing. This means the color appears as part of the fabric’s texture and character, and the garment-making process is then built on top of that surface.
-
Cotton cultivation
🇹🇷 — Turkey
Everything begins here.
The cotton used for this denim is grown
by local farming communities in Turkey,
without pesticides or chemical fertilizers.
In this country, cotton is a vital crop,
both economically and socially.
Growing a healthy, traceable fiber
lays the foundation for every quality that follows.
-
01｜Weaving
🇯🇵 Shinohara Textile — Fukuyama, Hiroshima
Where cotton becomes denim fabric.
Shinohara Textile is the workshop responsible
for the very first stage of this denim’s creation.
For over 70 years, they have handled every step in-house,
from cotton selection to fabric weaving.
In industrial denim production, the type of cotton
is usually fixed from the outset.
Here, it is not.
The organic cotton from Burkina Faso used for this project
features long, consistent fibers.
Its texture recalls vintage denim,
which is why it was chosen
on Shinohara Textile’s recommendation. -
Weaving
Woven on shuttle looms
At Shinohara Textile, the fabric is not produced
on high-speed looms designed for mass production.
Instead, it is woven on traditional shuttle looms.
Rather than shooting the weft thread by air or force,
the shuttle travels slowly from side to side,
passing a single continuous thread.
It is a time-consuming and demanding process,
but one that allows artisans to make fine adjustments
while closely monitoring the fabric at every stage.
Thanks to low-tension weaving
— Natural irregularities and depth
— A supple hand that adapts to the body
— A texture that deepens with wear, time, and dyeSlowly woven, this fabric evolves over time,
becoming a material meant to be lived in,
and kept for years.
-
Selvedge
Selvedge — a symbol of Japanese denim
Denim woven on shuttle looms naturally forms
a closed edge: the selvedge.
This is not a decorative feature.
It proves the fabric was woven as one continuous piece,
without the need for later finishing.
The result is a stronger fabric that resists fraying.
This is why selvedge denim remains stable over time
and develops richer character with wear.
On 9-jour. denim, red and green lines
are woven into the selvedge.
A tribute to Burkina Faso,
inspired by the colors of its flag.
A subtle detail that quietly speaks
of the fabric’s origins and journey. -
Inspection
Inspection and screening
Before any irreversible step — cutting, sewing, or dyeing —
every roll of denim is inspected by hand,
immediately after weaving.
The goal is to ensure the fabric meets
the standards of this project.
The inspection focuses on:
— Consistency of the weave throughout the roll
— Thread tension and overall stability
— Absence of flaws in the fabric and selvedge
— Any defects affecting comfort or print resultsNothing moves forward
without passing through human eyes and judgment.
-
02｜Printing🇯🇵 Fujita Sennen — Kyoto
Turning denim fabric into a canvas for expression.
Fujita Sennen is a Kyoto workshop that carries on
the techniques of Kyo-Yuzen, historically used
to dye kimono and yukata.
Here, printing is not industrial.
Each textile is produced by hand
using silk-screen printing.Every step is done by artisans:
— Hand-cut stencils are used, one by one
— Screens are layered for each color
— And each pass is applied with care, again and againEach stage demands intense focus
and steady patience.
Unlike mass-produced prints,
fabrics printed at Fujita Sennen develop subtle variations.
Those differences are not erased—
they remain as the denim’s own signature.
Even bolt to bolt, the expression can change.
That is one of the defining traits of this process. -
Challenge
The challenge of using natural dye in hand-printing
For 9-Jour, Fujita Sennen took on a challenge unlike anything before.
It was to adapt Shin-Manyō dyeing
for hand-printed textile work (hand screen printing).
Shin-Manyō was originally developed as a dyeing method
for coloring an entire fabric.
It had never been used as a printing medium.
There were no references to rely on—
no prior examples, and no technical data.Everything became a cycle of trial and error:
— Dye concentration
— Pressure applied by hand during printing
— Drying time
— How many layers to build
— How the fibers would reactEach parameter was checked, adjusted, and refined.
Through this process, Takehiro Fujita and his team
succeeded in elevating Shin-Manyō into a form suitable
for hand-printing.
As a result, 9-Jour achieves printed denim
using only plant-derived dyes.
With no compromise on quality, expression,
or environmental consideration,
a new form of textile expression was born.
-
03｜Construction
🇯🇵 Nice Corporation — Kojima, Okayama
Where fabric takes the shape of jeans.
Kojima is known as one of the birthplaces
of Japanese denim.
The phrase “Made in Japan Denim” was born here.
Denim woven by Shinohara Textile
is shipped in rolls to Kojima,
where Nice Corporation turns it into finished jeans.
This stage includes:
— Pattern-based cutting
— Assembly and sewing
— Preparation for finishingAt this stage, the print is already on the fabric.
The garment is built on top of that surface. -
Construction
Precision sewing in Kojima
Sewing at Nice Corporation is carried out
with a deep understanding of denim as a material.At every stage, the focus is on:
— Strength of the seams
— Careful assembly
— Durability built for long-term wearFor 9-jour. jeans, polyester thread is never used.
Only biodegradable threads, such as rayon, are employed.
Even unseen details matter.
The garment is considered as a whole.
This is the philosophy behind the craft.
-
Finishing & packaging
Checking the finished jeans and preparing them for shipment.
After the final finishing stage,
9-Jour jeans return to Kojima.
This is the last step of the process.
At Nice Corporation, each pair is handled individually
and carefully checked.
The inspection includes:— No unwanted irregularities or discomfort in the overall look
— No stains, marks, or traces left by the process
— Stitching remains solid after moisture exposure
— Overall compliance with 9-Jour standardsSlight differences in appearance are part of this denim’s nature.
Even so, anything that fails quality standards is not shipped.
Only verified pieces are delivered to customers. -
Packaging
Packaging designed to protect the product
Immediately after final inspection,
9-jour. denim is placed into packaging
specifically designed for Shin-Manyō dyeing.
Each pair of jeans is:— Sealed in a UV-protective bag
— Vacuum-packed with air removed
— Packed together with an oxygen absorberThis helps stabilize color during transport.
Plant-based dye is never completely fixed.
From the moment the package is opened,
air, light, and wear gradually begin to shift the tones.
That is where the story of the color begins.
About dress denim
Most 9-Jour denim is dyed after the jeans are fully made.
This denim is different: it is designed around color from the very beginning.
The yarn is dyed, that dyed yarn is woven into fabric, then the fabric is cut and sewn.
Color is not added afterward—it is built into the craft from the first step.
-
Cotton cultivation
🇹🇷 — Turkey
Everything begins here.
The cotton used for this denim is grown
by local farming communities in Turkey,
without pesticides or chemical fertilizers.
In this country, cotton is a vital crop,
both economically and socially.
Growing a healthy, traceable fiber
lays the foundation for every quality that follows.
-
01｜Yarn dyeing🇯🇵 Yachiyo Senko — Banshu, Hyogo
Where color is introduced to the yarn—before it becomes fabric.
The Banshu region of Hyogo is known as a textile area
with over 200 years of history.
Yachiyo Senko has carried on the craft of yarn-dyeing—
dyeing the yarn first, then weaving it into fabric.
The river water in this region is soft and clear,
ideal for dyeing yarn gently and evenly.
Shin-Manyō dyeing was originally used
to dye finished garments.
Applying it at the yarn stage required constant trial and error.
Dye penetration, color stability, and stress on the yarn—
each point was tested, checked, and adjusted repeatedly.
Through this process, Yachiyo Senko became the first in the world
to adapt Shin-Manyō dyeing to yarn dyeing.
Because the yarn already holds color before weaving,
the finished fabric develops a natural depth and expression. -
Natural dyeing
A new approach to natural dyeing
Shin-Manyō dyeing uses plant-derived colorants
in powder form.
Early on, this created a challenge:
uneven dyeing and pigment settling could occur on the yarn.
To solve this, Yachiyo Senko developed
a proprietary dyeing process using a centrifuge.
This made it possible to distribute color evenly
without placing unnecessary stress on the yarn.As a result:
— The dye penetrates to the core of the yarn
— The color remains stable, yet full of character
— The yarn’s natural softness is preservedThe water used in the dyeing process is fully purified
and rendered harmless within the workshop,
before being returned to the Seto Inland Sea watershed
(the Noma River system), an area with some of Japan’s strictest
environmental standards.
Because this process works with natural color,
environmental care is treated as essential—not optional.
-
02｜Weaving
🇯🇵 Shinohara Textile — Fukuyama, Hiroshima
Where cotton becomes denim fabric.
Shinohara Textile is the workshop responsible
for the first weaving stage of this denim’s creation.
For over 70 years, they have handled every step in-house,
from cotton selection to fabric weaving.
In industrial denim production, the type of cotton
is usually fixed from the outset.
Here, it is not.
The organic cotton from Burkina Faso used for this project
features long, consistent fibers.
Its texture recalls vintage denim,
which is why it was chosen
on Shinohara Textile’s recommendation. -
Weaving
Woven on shuttle looms
At Shinohara Textile, the fabric is not produced
on high-speed looms designed for mass production.
Instead, it is woven on traditional shuttle looms.
Rather than shooting the weft thread by air or force,
the shuttle travels slowly from side to side,
passing a single continuous thread.
It is a time-consuming and demanding process,
but one that allows artisans to make fine adjustments
while closely monitoring the fabric at every stage.
Thanks to low-tension weaving
— Natural irregularities and depth
— A supple hand that adapts to the body
— A texture that deepens with wear, time, and dyeSlowly woven, this fabric evolves over time,
becoming a material meant to be lived in,
and kept for years.
-
Selvedge
Selvedge — a symbol of Japanese denim
Denim woven on shuttle looms naturally forms
a closed edge: the selvedge.
This is not a decorative feature.
It proves the fabric was woven as one continuous piece,
without the need for later finishing.
The result is a stronger fabric that resists fraying.
This is why selvedge denim remains stable over time
and develops richer character with wear.
On 9-jour. denim, red and green lines
are woven into the selvedge.
A tribute to Burkina Faso,
inspired by the colors of its flag.
A subtle detail that quietly speaks
of the fabric’s origins and journey. -
Inspection
Inspection and screening
Before any irreversible step — cutting, sewing, or dyeing —
every roll of denim is inspected by hand,
immediately after weaving.
The goal is to ensure the fabric meets
the standards of this project.
The inspection focuses on:
— Consistency of the weave throughout the roll
— Thread tension and overall stability
— Absence of flaws in the fabric and selvedge
— Any defects affecting comfort or dye resultsNothing moves forward
without passing through human eyes and judgment.
-
03｜Construction
🇯🇵 Nice Corporation — Kojima, Okayama
Where fabric takes the shape of jeans.
Kojima is known as one of the birthplaces
of Japanese denim.
The phrase “Made in Japan Denim” was born here.
Denim woven by Shinohara Textile
is shipped in rolls to Kojima,
where Nice Corporation turns it into finished jeans.
This stage includes:
— Pattern-based cutting
— Assembly and sewing
— Preparation for dyeingAt this point, the jeans are not yet finished as a product.
Color has already been built into the fabric from the yarn stage. -
Construction
Precision sewing in Kojima
Sewing at Nice Corporation is carried out
with a deep understanding of denim as a material.At every stage, the focus is on:
— Strength of the seams
— Careful assembly
— Durability built for long-term wearFor 9-jour. jeans, polyester thread is never used.
Only biodegradable threads, such as rayon, are employed.
Even unseen details matter.
The garment is considered as a whole.
This is the philosophy behind the craft.
-
Finishing & packaging
Checking the finished jeans and preparing them for shipment.
After dyeing is complete, 9-Jour jeans return to Kojima.
This is the final stage of production.
At Nice Corporation, each pair is handled individually
and carefully checked.
The inspection includes:— No unwanted irregularities or discomfort in the overall look
— No stains, marks, or traces left by the process
— Stitching remains solid after moisture exposure
— Overall compliance with 9-Jour standardsSlight differences in appearance are part of this denim’s nature.
Even so, anything that fails quality standards is not shipped.
Only verified pieces are delivered to customers. -
Packaging
Packaging designed to protect the product
Immediately after final inspection,
9-jour. denim is placed into packaging
specifically designed for Shin-Manyō dyeing.
Each pair of jeans is:— Sealed in a UV-protective bag
— Vacuum-packed with air removed
— Packed together with an oxygen absorberThis helps stabilize color during transport.
Plant-based dye is never completely fixed.
From the moment the package is opened,
air, light, and wear gradually begin to shift the tones.
That is where the story of the color begins.
The Craftsmen of 9-jour.
Local craftsmanship gives form to philosophy
9-jour. denim is not completed by design alone.
Choosing the yarn, weaving, dyeing, printing, sewing — each step requires expertise and commitment.
Here we introduce the craftsmen who support 9-jour.’s manufacturing. Each process forms the foundation that guarantees 9-jour.’s integrity .
Shinohara Textile | Weaving
The foundation of 9-jour. denim making
For over 70 years, they have continued weaving denim , a long-established textile mill based in Fukuyama.
Using both traditional shuttle looms and newer machines, they deeply understand yarn characteristics, cotton quality, and the resulting fabric texture.
The collaboration with 9-jour. began at the conceptual stage, and it was Shinohara Textile who proposed using organic cotton from Burkina Faso during material selection.
The fiber length and uniformity create a texture close to vintage denim . Their discerning eye for materials and uncompromising attitude mark the starting point of 9-jour.
Kyoto Kawabata Shoten | Botanical Dyeing
Embracing changing colors as value
An independent dye studio specializing in botanical dyeing, located in the heart of Kyoto.
They practice and carry on their independently developed botanical dyeing technique “Shin Man’yō-zome” .
Using very small amounts of plant-based dyes, they produce deep, vivid colors — while accepting that botanical dyes naturally change over time.
What Kawabata Shoten was concerned about was having color aging treated as a defect
9-jour. clearly embraced this not as “deterioration,” but as value that grows together with the wearer , which marked the beginning of their collaboration.
Kawabata Shoten’s dyeing engraves not only color, but also the presence of time itself into 9-jour. denim.
Yachiyo Dye Works | Yarn Dyeing (Pre-dyed)
Not preserving tradition, but evolving it
For over 200 years, they have carried on the technique of “pre-dyeing” , representing the Banshu region’s yarn dyeing heritage.
Yachiyo Dye Works is also known for color depth, stability, and strong environmental consideration. All used water is treated in-house and discharged in compliance with strict regional standards.
Their challenge with 9-jour. was applying “Shin Man’yō-zome” to yarn dyeing
To prevent uneven coloring while protecting the fibers, they developed an entirely new process from scratch . The result is a stable yet vibrant dye that penetrates deeply into the yarn using plant-based materials.
This collaboration embodies a vision for the future of dyeing itself.
Fujita Dye Studio | Hand Printing (Kyoto Yuzen)
Handling ‘living’ botanical dyes through printing
For over 90 years , they have carried on Kyoto Yuzen techniques as a studio specializing in hand printing.
By creating stencils for each design and layering colors one by one by hand , they achieve depth and variation impossible with machine printing.
An unknown challenge for both 9-jour. and Fujita Dye Studio was using ‘living’ botanical dyes for printing
Color results vary depending on drying and layering, making control extremely difficult. With no precedent or data, they continuously adjusted pigment density, pressure, drying time, and layering count.
Tradition does not survive by preservation alone. It lives by being tested, renewed, and redefined.
Fujita Dye Studio connects Kyoto Yuzen traditions to contemporary materials and values .
Nice Corporation | Sewing
The final process that never betrays the philosophy
A sewing workshop based in Kojima, the sacred ground of Japanese denim.
From cutting and sewing to final inspection and shipping, they maintain a fully integrated production system , tailoring each garment according to fabric thickness, tension, and dye variation.
A symbolic choice is selecting biodegradable materials whenever possible, including sewing threads .
Instead of conventional polyester thread, they deliberately use rayon. Embedding philosophy even in unseen details aligns with 9-jour.’s values.
Careful sewing, strict inspection, and appropriate packaging — the final safeguard to deliver the embedded philosophy in its best form.